Maintaining the structure and appearance of your home is important not only because your quality of life is directly linked to the state of your home, but also because you are taking a risk when you fail to address your red flags. In this article (the first of 2), we will show you how to recognize and triage key red flags.
If you address minor issues when they appear, you will save a lot of money in the long run. You may also prevent health side effects, especially when water damage turns into insect infestation or mold! Listed below are the water-related red flags to take action on: they could be harmless or a major issue: better to know and fix it before the problem gets more serious (and expensive)!
1. Bubbling paint could be a sign of a serious leak, where moisture is dripping behind a wall. The fix depends on the source: for example if ice damming is occurring on your roof then there’s no sense repairing a wall until the source of the damage is fixed. There could be a leaky drain or wet line from the floor above: the solution for that would be to cut out the damaged area, access and fix the source of the leak and then replace the affected drywall and repair the wall completely.
2. Foul or unpleasant smell – can point to a sewage leak or pipes that are not plumbed, trapped, or vented properly. For this, the floor may need to be excavated to access the drain, and new plumbing installed).
3. Damp smell, mould, mildew – you may think these are harmless but they can only get worse over time – moisture issues do not go away by themselves. whether its water leaching into your foundation or plumbing ventilation or drain leak issue if the odour is coming from under a cupboard or under a sink. If a leak has been present for any length of time, construction materials such as drywall or framing may be rotted and need to be replaced.
4. Buckling tiles or floor boards in a basement can indicate moisture/dampness underfoot. If this is happening in a finished basement, there is likely a crack in the foundation. Excavation on the exterior of the foundation is required to fix this, followed by polyurethane injection, tar and blueskin application.
5. Floor Stains around showers, toilet or vanity point to a plumbing issue. Once the plumbing issue is ameliorated there is still the issue of water damage in the construction materials. Finishes and subfloor may need to be replaced, depending on the level of degradation.
6. Discoloured ceiling or wall or rotten carpet: as above, the fix depends on the source of damage. Water and most interior and structural construction materials don’t mix. The trickle of water from a leaky roof or window over time can rot away structural wood members. Proper flashing placement and caulking are half the battle when preventing water infiltration.
Wall and ceiling board can be replaced quite easily. A small leak onto a carpet on the other hand must be caught and dried quickly. If left unchecked, it can turn to a mold farm very quickly. Mold is a major health hazard for your family.
7. Carpenter Ants Outside – if you see one, you can be sure there are thousands more where he came from. Carpenter Ants like to live in places where there is darkness and moisture. If the ants are found around your garage or shed, there could be a leaky hose causing the wood in the joists to rot. This is a perfect home for ants. The fix is to stop the leak and replace the damaged timber.
If other types of ants are spotted inside, they are looking for one thing: food. They come in through a crack around your window or door usually. The solution could be as simple as a little caulking replacement.
Tradesman, skilled labourer, builder, general contractor, commercial contractor, craftsman, handyman, what’s the difference between all these types of contractors? It’s valuable to know, so you can make the best choice, when selecting a company to work in and on your home.
There are two main categories of contractors: Commercial and Residential.
A commercial contractor usually takes on medium or large commercial projects and they are chosen through a tender and bidding process which is overseen by governing bodies. Price is generally the main factor that decides which company is hired to complete the project. It is also slightly political and business relationships are very important between contracting companies and development businesses who oversee hundreds or thousands of projects. Most commercial contractors are incorporated and hire labour that is unionized. The nature of union work is that workers must qualify through achieving different certifications and once they are hired, their hourly wage is dependent on seniority and experience level. They do exactly what they are asked to do and no more. They clock in and clock out and they are fairly reliable, however don’t care much about the quality of their work, as long as it meets minimum standards.
Residential contractors come in all shapes and sizes, and pricing is not always the best way to determine who does the best work. Many homeowners want to pay the cheapest amount possible with their after-tax dollars, but they have trouble determining the best company to hire.
If you hire a handyman or general contractor who is not a skilled framer/drywaller or plasterer himself, then he should subcontract that work out to an expert. Any contractor who lacks knowledge because they have not been properly trained does not know the difference between low quality and high quality work.
Some of the results you will see that result from low quality work:
It is a little-known fact that the material used by builders to produce the stippled look for ceilings sometimes contains asbestos, a very hazardous material with serious potential health consequences.
Asbestos is most hazardous when it is friable: meaning it is actively releasing its fibers into the air. Sprayed-on asbestos insulation and ceiling stipple are highly friable, but asbestos floor tile is not. Damage and deterioration will increase the friability of asbestos-containing materials. Water damage, continual vibration, aging, and physical impact such as drilling, grinding, buffing, cutting, sawing, or striking can break the materials down, making fiber release more likely.
Because it is so hard to destroy asbestos fibers, the body cannot break them down or remove them once they are lodged in lung or body tissues. The fibers remain in place where they can cause disease (Asbestosis, Lung Cancer and Mesothelioma are the diseases mostly commonly associated with exposure to Asbestos fibers).
At Fine Finish Wall Systems, we care about health and safety. We think it’s important that homeowners know about the health risks of the materials used to build their home. Because of demand, we now offer Asbestos testing for your ceiling, through an accredited laboratory that will tell you if your stippled ceilings contain asbestos. Results can be collected in as little as 24 hours.
If we discover asbestos in your ceiling then we will not sand it down, due to the health risk. Instead we will seal the ceiling and apply a level 5 plaster system directly over it. This is an advanced technique.
Asbestos Lab Testing Cost: This includes collection of sample, delivery to lab, emailed report.
5-day turnaround $250
24-hour turnaround $450
Woodpeckers are always looking for food, and they will peck a hole in your exterior stucco in the springtime. When they realize there are no worms or ants inside your wall, they will move on to another spot.
Small birds such as sparrows or swallows will spot the hole and go into the hole and pick the foam out, to build a nest inside the wall cavity. This hole will cause damage to your entire elevation if not repaired. This occurs due to water infiltration at the breach, saturating the foam. Come winter the water-logged system expands as it freezes and pushes the coatings away from the foam. This causes giant blisters and in some cases entire elevations to fail. If left unchecked these little holes can lead to major problems from substrate rot to interior water damage and mold.
There are 2 ways to fix holes in your stucco:
The cheap fix is to pump polyurethane into the hole, grind it back, add a mesh, base coat and finish coat. This patch will become thicker than the wall itself because it’s layers do not integrate with the underlying system. The result is a “bull’s eye” bulge, which will only last for 1 or 2 years, and you’ll be at risk for patch failure and further surface and potential structural damage.
The correct fix will cost anywhere from $250-$450 per hole, which is much cheaper than fixing an entire elevation (the eventual result of not doing anything or performing cheap fixes). We cut a 1’x1′ square and replace with new foam, a new moisture barrier if necessary, and then grind the finish coat back on existing wall about 3 inch apply a 5oz mesh, scratch coat and finally a finish coat. In the event the wall has been imprinted with carbon (pollution) or has been bleached by the sun, we guarantee a minimum 90% colour match or better. with the proper procedures followed.
Done properly the result will be a seamless patch that will last the life of your wall system.