It is a little-known fact that the material used by builders to produce the stippled look for ceilings sometimes contains asbestos, a very hazardous material with serious potential health consequences.
Asbestos is most hazardous when it is friable: meaning it is actively releasing its fibers into the air. Sprayed-on asbestos insulation and ceiling stipple are highly friable, but asbestos floor tile is not. Damage and deterioration will increase the friability of asbestos-containing materials. Water damage, continual vibration, aging, and physical impact such as drilling, grinding, buffing, cutting, sawing, or striking can break the materials down, making fiber release more likely.
Because it is so hard to destroy asbestos fibers, the body cannot break them down or remove them once they are lodged in lung or body tissues. The fibers remain in place where they can cause disease (Asbestosis, Lung Cancer and Mesothelioma are the diseases mostly commonly associated with exposure to Asbestos fibers).
At Fine Finish Wall Systems, we care about health and safety. We think it’s important that homeowners know about the health risks of the materials used to build their home. Because of demand, we now offer Asbestos testing for your ceiling, through an accredited laboratory that will tell you if your stippled ceilings contain asbestos. Results can be collected in as little as 24 hours.
If we discover asbestos in your ceiling then we will not sand it down, due to the health risk. Instead we will seal the ceiling and apply a level 5 plaster system directly over it. This is an advanced technique.
Asbestos Lab Testing Cost: This includes collection of sample, delivery to lab, emailed report.
5-day turnaround $250
24-hour turnaround $450
Homeowners and handymen are often under the false impression that drywall installation is the simplest part of a basement renovation. It seems almost as easy as LEGO! Once the framing is up, simply screw in the wall boards to cover the entire surface and voilà, on to taping!
…. Well sorry to say, but actually proper drywall/sheetrock installation involves some strategy to get the best result.
It’s very important to consider the end product. A wall system that will stay straight and smooth for decades. You don’t ever want to have to go back and fix a wall that’s cracking or warping, so you better just do it right in the first place.
The way the sheetrock is installed has a direct impact on the integrity of the entire finished product.
First of all, the boards should be staggered so that the “butt joints” in one row do not match up with the “butt joints” in the next row. Next, it’s important to install horizontally rather than vertically. Next, drywall sheets must always span doors and windows: this fortifies the wall or ceiling strong and minimizes potential for cracks.
Think about it: a taped joint inevitably creates a small section that is weaker than the surrounding drywall. So if the butt joints are aligned, then it increases the length of each of these weak points. If a crack starts along an improperly installed joint, it will meet little resistance until it reaches the other end. This is the cause of one of the worst eyesores in a home next to water stains.
Staggering butt joints is clearly a more difficult and time-consuming method for installing drywall. This practice requires more measuring and cutting and it creates more T-shaped seams, which are more difficult to finish than non-staggered joints.
In the end, you will get what you pay for. Inexperienced contractors will quote you a low price because they need your work, and that’s the only way they are likely to be hired. Call the professionals: at Fine Finish Wall Systems we are classically trained master plasterers who take pride in our work.
We get it – spending money to repair your ceiling is not sexy or even interesting. Most homeowners want to spend the bare minimum, when it comes to home repairs and maintenance. They’d rather spend money to put up cornice moulding, or perhaps install some built-in cabinets to increase visual appeal and enjoyment of their living space.
Unscrupulous contractors with little experience or training know they can profit from this fact. They will take advantage of this situation and propose a “quick solution” that will in the end come back to bite the naïve homeowner.
Here are 3 “quick fix solutions” that homeowners often fall for. If a contractor suggests any of these, run the other way!
1. Applying drywall directly over top of a stipple ceiling application is dangerous, lazy and improper. This is due to the fact that the contractor doesn’t know what they are screwing into. In order to execute this, a minimum 2” screw is needed. If the contractor misses the stud with just one screw and there is a rogue electrical or gas line in the joist cavity (run improperly by a homeowner or lazy/improperly trained contractor), then there is a real risk of driving the screw into that rogue line – resulting in a gas leak, explosion or even a fire via electrical arcing that causes sparks in the ceiling that will ignite dry timber/debris in the hoist cavity.
2. Re-spraying an existing damaged area. This procedure involves scraping off the damaged or stained area of stipple, skim-coating the area and then trying to re-spray stipple on that affected area only, hoping to blend that with the rest of the ceiling using tape lines and sponge techniques. This is practically impossible to do well because the contractor doesn’t know what type of stipple was used for the original application, what nozzle tip was used on the gun for the spray application, nor the consistency of the original stipple mix. The end result is improper blending.
3. Re-spraying the entire ceiling with new stipple over the old stipple. If the stipple was unpainted and you try to mask the damaged area that’s now either missing stipple or has been water damaged, by respraying over the entire ceiling just to mask the damaged area, then the new stipple will activate the old, being that both are water based, the ceiling will start to blister and fall off in big chunks. If the original stipple ceiling was painted, then you’re not going to get proper adhesion on the oil-based paint on the existing ceiling.
As soon as it starts to dry out, it will flake and pop and fall off in little bits and pieces. By the time all this has taken place the contractor is long gone and good luck getting him to come back and correct it. You don’t really want that, do you? Of course not.
The only proper way to deal with any type of ceiling water damage is to scrape and smooth the entire area, replace the affected drywall or rip down the entire ceiling and apply new drywall. It costs a little more, but it will last for years.
Ultimately, you get what you pay for, when you hire a quality master plaster applicator from Fine Finish. Request your free estimate today
Valuable Information for Homeowners
Couples are divided on the topic of whether to smooth out their ceiling stipple, technical term is “vermiculite” (often referred to as Popcorn Ceilings) in their home. This article provides facts to inform your decision on whether to leave your stipple ceilings alone, or to smooth them out.
What is popcorn ceiling made of?
You can’t address an project properly without first understanding what you are dealing with. The “popcorn” ceiling mixture can be made of a number of different materials. Some ceilings are made of styrofoam, some are cardboard based and others are made from a naturally occurring mineral known as vermiculite. While vermiculite is not the same as asbestos, it does OFTEN contain it. So proper precautions and remediation equipment should always be used.
One point to consider is that hardly anyone ever chooses to add stipple to a smooth ceiling. Stippled ceilings are basically a builder’s shortcut to hide imperfections in their plasterwork, and that is common knowledge. The question then becomes “can I live with this look, or is the alternative worth the investment?”
Here are the top five reasons people choose to smooth their ceilings:
1. Smooth ceilings are a home upgrade. Did you know that smooth ceilings increase the value of your home? Ceiling stipple makes your home look dated.
2. Smooth ceilings add visual height and spaciousness to rooms and hallways. In contrast, stippled or textured ceilings draws your focus to the texture, making the room seem smaller.
3. Spaces with smooth ceilings maximize the light. A flat surface reflects light and an irregular surface,such as stipple, under the same light sheer will cast thousands of tiny shadows on your ceiling lending to a dark and dingy appearance and feel, no matter if it is ambient or directional light.
4. Aesthetically, a smooth ceiling is less visually distracting, busy and induces a general feeling of calm.
5. Air Quality and room cleanliness are a concern for 50% of homeowners with unpainted stippled ceilings. Stipple is porous and holds a lot of dust and pet or smoke odour, and as mentioned before, the stipple itself COULD contain asbestos. Finally, unpainted stippled ceilings are “live” systems and continuously shedding dust particles “dandruff” which have been linked to respiratory problems in young children and the elderly. Also stipple becomes discoloured over time.
We hope that this information is useful for you. If you are ready to get an estimate to smooth out your ceilings, contact Fine Finish Wall Systems, certified Master Plasterers.
Tradesman, skilled labourer, builder, general contractor, commercial contractor, craftsman, handyman, what’s the difference between all these types of contractors? It’s valuable to know, so you can make the best choice, when selecting a company to work in and on your home.
There are two main categories of contractors: Commercial and Residential.
A commercial contractor usually takes on medium or large commercial projects and they are chosen through a tender and bidding process which is overseen by governing bodies. Price is generally the main factor that decides which company is hired to complete the project. It is also slightly political and business relationships are very important between contracting companies and development businesses who oversee hundreds or thousands of projects. Most commercial contractors are incorporated and hire labour that is unionized. The nature of union work is that workers must qualify through achieving different certifications and once they are hired, their hourly wage is dependent on seniority and experience level. They do exactly what they are asked to do and no more. They clock in and clock out and they are fairly reliable, however don’t care much about the quality of their work, as long as it meets minimum standards.
Residential contractors come in all shapes and sizes, and pricing is not always the best way to determine who does the best work. Many homeowners want to pay the cheapest amount possible with their after-tax dollars, but they have trouble determining the best company to hire.
If you hire a handyman or general contractor who is not a skilled framer/drywaller or plasterer himself, then he should subcontract that work out to an expert. Any contractor who lacks knowledge because they have not been properly trained does not know the difference between low quality and high quality work.
Some of the results you will see that result from low quality work:
Gone are the days when cornice and crown ceiling mouldings are constructed of pure plaster. The material is very heavy and difficult to repair if damaged. There are companies who say wood is best because it is lightweight and easily carved. The problem with wood (pure wood or MDF) is that it always splits and cracks within one to two years because of temperature and humidity changes in the typical Canadian home.
Then there are PVC mouldings, which are made through injection, requiring the use of moulds. Like wood, the selection is limited to flat and shallow profiles to save on costs. The only way to achieve a detailed design would have to be done by layering and nailing sections together. These would eventually split due to environmental factors. Also PVC is plastic, and it looks like plastic. (It fits well in certain situations such as vinyl siding exteriors but if your façade is, for example, brick, you may want to consider our mouldings that are authentic in finish and a genuine fit on any exterior.)
Installation of PVC mouldings also requires consideration of expansion and contraction due to shifts in temperature. Manufacturers recommended leaving a 1/8” gap over 18’ spans which are then filled with caulking, leaving a visible seam.
Considering the deficiencies and drawbacks of plaster, wood and PVC, the modern solution to interior and exterior architectural mouldings is EPS – Expandable Polystyrene. For interior spaces, EPS is coated in plaster.
For exterior applications, the EPS is coated in a modified polymer cement rather than plaster. EPS is a highly durable material used in a large number of consumer products. It is environmentally friendly not only for it’s long-lasting durability and heat-insulating qualities, but EPS has never contained CFCs, HCFCs, HFCs or formaldehyde – all of which are chemicals harmful to the environment. EPS is inert and stable and does not produce methane gas or contaminating leachates. The extrusion process allows the manufacturer to create any detail and any size in one piece with no seams at an economical price point.
Because EPS mouldings are a custom product, the exact profile needed is what is produced and installed: any shape is possible! Homeowners can choose their profile from a catalogue, but if a specific profile is required, or a match to something already in your home is required, it is a simple process. A computer software automates a heated wire to cut the exact profile out of a block of EPS, which is already in its final state of hardness.
An added bonus is that once complete, EPS mouldings do not require the use of nails for installation, so the final finish will be much more consistent with no holes to patch. Ultimately, their integrity and durability are second to none and literally require no maintenance for the life of the product. We have one client who had his plaster cornice installed in 2009 (10 years ago) and we call him back every year – it’s like a running joke now, that he has “nothing to report”. He is one of our happiest customers.
If an EPS plaster moulding is damaged (from water or structural shifting or impact), then repair is easy and seamless. We simply cut out the affected area, get the profile matched, triple-coat it, wet-sand and re-paint. Voila!
It takes a skilled craftsman to install EPS mouldings properly, where the proper substrate and moisture barrier are implemented, and expert application of the finish coats. Learn more about our professional service.
Every month we enter homes to renovate or repair existing wall structures and we are amazed by the amount of improper framing that’s being done in the area. The reason it’s important to install framing correctly is that when done incorrectly, finished walls will show imperfections and eventually mouldings, baseboard and paint will fail by warping and/or cracking.
High Standards for Framing
Before installing, we check for the bows and crowns in the lumber so all framing will be aligned. In Ontario, Spruce timber is the best material to use because of its even texture and light weight. In fact it has one of the highest strength-to-weight ratios of all softwood species, compared to Pine or Fir. There are many reasons to use wood for framing as opposed to metal. First of all, it’s tencile strength allows it to bend under pressure without breaking.
Wood also has superior thermal properties, a great advantage in resisting high temperatures. When compared to steel which can expand or even collapse in high heat, wood dries out and gets stronger in high heat. Also wood does not conduct heat the same as steel or aluminum.
Wood also has favourable acoustic benefits: it absorbs sound and echoes: a huge benefit in a home with many family members who enjoy their peace and quiet. Lastly, wood is resistant to electrical currents, making it perfect insulation for electrical wiring.
The goal is always to build a wall skeleton that is plumb and true. Properly built walls simply look better and last longer than walls with shoddy framing.
For door and window openings, the underlying components such as king and cripple studs provide strength, and for bulkheads and columns it’s best to use a wood-steel hybrid for laser-straight corners and zero warping. Believe it or not, these are standards many contractors do follow in their quest to finish cheaply and quickly.
Where framing meets concrete (for example with exterior walls), it’s important to prevent moisture transfer by adding a moisture barrier, a simple layer of heavy-duty plastic that will keep mould away from framing.
When it comes to partition walls and back framing nails and screws, a ratio of 1 screw for every 2 nails ensures a quality end result. This standard is often not upheld on many construction sites, even though it is part of the Ontario Building Code
At Fine Finish, we take pride in the quality and integrity of our the walls we build, and our framing shows it.
Always ask for references from past customers. There is no substitute for talking with real people who have hired and experienced the trade professional personally.
Woodpeckers are always looking for food, and they will peck a hole in your exterior stucco in the springtime. When they realize there are no worms or ants inside your wall, they will move on to another spot.
Small birds such as sparrows or swallows will spot the hole and go into the hole and pick the foam out, to build a nest inside the wall cavity. This hole will cause damage to your entire elevation if not repaired. This occurs due to water infiltration at the breach, saturating the foam. Come winter the water-logged system expands as it freezes and pushes the coatings away from the foam. This causes giant blisters and in some cases entire elevations to fail. If left unchecked these little holes can lead to major problems from substrate rot to interior water damage and mold.
There are 2 ways to fix holes in your stucco:
The cheap fix is to pump polyurethane into the hole, grind it back, add a mesh, base coat and finish coat. This patch will become thicker than the wall itself because it’s layers do not integrate with the underlying system. The result is a “bull’s eye” bulge, which will only last for 1 or 2 years, and you’ll be at risk for patch failure and further surface and potential structural damage.
The correct fix will cost anywhere from $250-$450 per hole, which is much cheaper than fixing an entire elevation (the eventual result of not doing anything or performing cheap fixes). We cut a 1’x1′ square and replace with new foam, a new moisture barrier if necessary, and then grind the finish coat back on existing wall about 3 inch apply a 5oz mesh, scratch coat and finally a finish coat. In the event the wall has been imprinted with carbon (pollution) or has been bleached by the sun, we guarantee a minimum 90% colour match or better. with the proper procedures followed.
Done properly the result will be a seamless patch that will last the life of your wall system.